A hidden pearl (not sure how hidden it is anymore though, as it's constantly fully booked) in SOHO. Nestled above the French House bar without any sign outside, finding this gem is difficult enough. Getting a seat is even harder in the 28 seat restaurant. The food may be Italian, but the vibe is decidedly Lower East Side Manhattan with exposed brick, black and white photographs and tattooed waitresses. Apparantly the head chef learnt his trade at Boca di Lupo, so I wasn’t surprised to see similar fare on the menu. Try a wide arrangement of Cichetti including the meatballs and Polpetti of course, with prices at only a few pounds a pop. Post Cichetti the chilli and garlic prawns proved a hit, but the signature dish has to the beef filet drizzled with truffle oil sauce which was so fragrant, the room instantly smelled like an Autumn farmer’s market in Avignon once the dish emerged from the kitchen.
The two guys behind this restaurant along with Polpo and the yet to be opened Sputino need to be applauded for their fresh take on dining and their modern interpretation of Italian mainstream fare. London certainly needed a bit of gastronomic edginess West of Shoreditch.
No reservations for dinner, so the lunch option is appealing.
Ranking:
Food – 7/10
Service – 7/10
Ambiance – 8/10
Value – 8/10
Bill for two £50
49 Dean Street, W1D 5BG
020 7734 1969
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